Sophisticated Street Food: Suvlaki by Tom Kembery
Words: Tom Kembery
Last week, i visited Suvlaki, an authentic Athenian restaurant located in the heart of Soho. A very intimate restaurant setting with just 34 covers, Suvlaki prides itself on offering a traditional taste of Greece, serving a delicious selection of popular Greek street food with a sophisticated twist.
'Souvlaki', meaning little skewer or stick, has been a popular street food in Greece for centuries. Meat is grilled on a skewer and traditionally served with pitta, salad and tzatziki. Keen to introduce this much-loved Greek cuisine to the British public, Suvlaki opened its doors in 2015 drawing on the street food as inspiration for their current menu.
On arrival, we were greeted by the manager and shown to our seats (7pm on an unassuming Tuesday night and the restaurant was already full). With soft jazz playing, graffiti-covered the walls, marble table tops and snazzy low-level lighting, Suvlaki oozes cool.
While perusing the menu, we chose our drinks: a Fix lager for me and a lovely glass of the Alpha Estate Malagouzia, a Greek wine, for my guest. After getting the down-low of the menu from our waiter, we placed our order. We knew we were in for a right Greek treat!
With a selection of interesting small plates for starters, we eased ourselves in gently with a portion of Kalamata olives served with pitta and olive oil and pulled pork crostini, made with succulent pork collar and red wine, served on a toasted pitta, topped with chilli flakes and feta.
Simple yet so tasty, the pulled pork crostini awakened our taste buds. The meat was lovely and tender, while the hint of chilli made sure that was a dish that you wouldn't forget. We happily nibbled away, enjoying the fresh taste of the Mediterranean and eyeing up the other dishes as they left the kitchen.
A few moments later, our impressive main arrived. We had decided to share the Suvlaki Exuberance, a tasting platter of skewers, burgers, wraps and sides, as this meant we could sample a large part of the menu in one sitting. Our platter included:
1 Wild Boar sausage skewer
1 Chicken Thigh skewer
2 Greek Burgers stuffed with feta
1 Vegetarian Wrap
1 Pork Wrap
Baked feta
Lentil salad
Greek salad
Chips
Tzatziki
All elements of the platter were delicious. Our whole table was bursting with fresh, tasty, honest food. We started off with the skewers, which were cooked and seasoned to perfection. Next, we tucked into the wraps, while sampling the salads and sides. The lentil salad, made with florina pepper, spring onion, crumbled feta and balsamic vinegar, was simply divine and the texture of the baked feta was lovely.
Last but not least, we devoured the Greek burgers, which were stuffed with feta. Feta overload, you may be thinking? Definitely not! The different ways the cheese was used throughout this meal meant that each dish was accentuated by the feta and appreciated in the context of its own plate. We loved every mouthful! The thought behind each dish is evident and the composition of the Suvlaki Exuberance platter is extremely satisfying and creates a thoroughly enjoyable experience.
Even though we were both bursting at the seams after such a delicious main course, I am not one to resist a dessert. With my boyfriend not really being a dessert man, I chose two for us to share (meaning, I chose the two that I wanted most). I opted for the "Samos To Soho" Cheesecake, a new addition to the menu, and the Chocolate Biscuit Cake.
Being a bit of a cheesecake connoisseur, I naturally dived into this first. With wild Greek honey, candied ginger, citrus and meringue, it was fresh and luxuriously thick without being too heavy. After devouring most of the cheesecake (it was simply too good to share), my spoon made its way over to the Chocolate Biscuit Cake.
Paired with homemade Greek coffee ice-cream, this dessert is ideal for those who want something a little lighter. Although it is made with chocolate, it has a good ratio of biscuit to chocolate, leaving you feeling sweetly satisfied without the stodge. They were both utterly delicious but for me, the cheesecake hit a few more of the right notes.
Overall, our experience at Suvlaki was superb. The waiting staff were friendly, informative and efficient. The restaurant ambience was buzzing without being overpowering and the star of the show - the food - was a delicious change to the cuisines we usually eat.
Greek of the Week :)
Prices:
Starters from £2.50
Mains from £8
Suvlaki Exuberance £34
Opening Times:
Monday - Thursday 12pm - 11.30pm
Friday - Saturday 12pm - 12am
Sunday 12pm - 10.30pm
21 Bateman St, London, W1D 3AL
